Things are probably going to be a little scattered around here as I "move in." There are a few equestrian-related posts on my photoblog that I'll be copying and posting here, simply because I feel they're of interest. They'll also help me get the ball rolling--I have issues with that when it comes to new blogs. XD
Two nights ago, I was looking online and found a promising looking book on bits and bitting. It goes through some 4,000 bits and their purpose, plus the history and development of the bit, a discussion on the equine mouth and bitting philosophies, and thus choosing bits. I was all set to look it up, but it's 80 freaking dollars. And of course, they don't have it in our library system. I filled out an OLL for it, so hopefully it'll come soon.
Anyway, it got me looking up horse and riding books. I was interested in reading up on double bridles, more for a future "this way I'll know when we're ready to use one" than for anything else. I then came across an interesting book written by a rather grouchy, possibly elitist classical dressage rider on training young horses. (Luckily amazon had it on their "look inside" thingies.) It contains awesome diagrams and really good exercises and insights into training movements. I did order it through our library system, so it'll be interesting to read. In one section I could look at, he was talking about how 98% of the time, riders are misusing their bits. Mostly because modern riding doesn't teach riders about bits and bitting--which is exactly true.
Sure, through my ten years of riding experience I've worked up a repertoire of bits--when I used them with each horse and why, what affect they had on the riding experience, and how I worked with them versus how the horse felt with them. But, when it comes down to it, I don't know a damn thing about bitting. I understand the basics of the equine mouth and how bits come into play, but if you told me that Horse X was having ___ and asked how better he could be bitted, I really wouldn't know what to tell you. Unless of course the situation fell under bits I've already used myself.
Considering there are AT LEAST 4,000 bits, and new ("& improved") versions are coming out all the time, my knowledge of bits and bitting is equivalent to a middle-school-level French student trying to live in Nice without a dictionary.
He went on to talk about how, of that 98%, 96% are using too strong of a bit. It's kind of a simple notion: a horse is going to be strong or heavy on the bit not only when the bit in his mouth is too mild and simply doesn't enter into his equation of communication, but also when the bit in his mouth is too strong and he feels he has to brace or tense or be strong on the bit in order to interfere with communication lest it cause more pain. It's so simple a notion, in fact, that a lot of riders simply don't think of it that way. "He's pulling? Oh, well, take out that loose ring and try a kimberwick." Not, "He's pulling? Well, maybe the bit is too strong or sits uncomfortably in his mouth and he's avoiding the pain the only way he can think of." I know for a fact that even very experienced riders/trainers make that mistake. We're only human, after all.
So, eyeing the mullen mouth bit beside my desk, I decided to try using it yesterday and again today. A mullen mouth bit is essentially a slightly curved bar bit. There are no joints or links. Consequently, it is considered (one of) the mildest bit. Because there are no joints or links, the pressure is not broken. Links also impact the roof of the mouth, causing pain and discomfort. However, because the mullen does not have any joints/links, it is generally considered an upper level bit. (It's also a good choice for horses with injured mouths, though some horses, particularly off-track thoroughbreds, need a ported bit because they don't like tongue pressure.) Joints allow each side to be independent. Horses, therefore, need to listen well to seat and leg cues (or, as in western riding with a curb bit, neck reining). Another problem with mullen mouth bits is that the absence of a joint or link means it is very easy for the horse to lean on the bit, so the horse should be fairly self-sufficient with his carriage and balance before bitted with one.
To be honest, I don't remember buying a mullen mouth bit. Especially because the mullen mouth I have is a 5" bit, rather than the 6" bit size Toler needs. Since I own one, even a small one, I figured I may as well try it out. Toler wasn't too happy about it being small. His lips were a little pinched, but because my bit is a non-uxter styled kimberwick cheek (no rein slots), the bit stayed put and didn't slide through his mouth or pinch too much. I gave him a reassuring face rub and told him it'd only be for one or two rides, to test a theory.
Just as I half-expected (I'll be honest, it was a rather blind "let's see what happens" bout of guesswork), Toler bridled up with hardly a touch from my hands. He was slightly above the bit at times, but mostly because I wasn't used to the less direct feel of the reins. I don't do much one-sided riding anymore; I try to use solid, equal pressure on both reins and release forward as Toler softens, just as I try to use my seat and legs to move him through turns and circles. Inside leg to outside rein and all that dressage-commandment jazz.
The fact remains that when I'm freelunging Toler, he does gorgeous tempi (two stride usually, but sometimes single stride) flying changes down the rail. To do a flying change well (read: correctly), the horse has to be balanced, moving in a "true," straight canter. If Toler can do flying changes by himself like that, it means that he's achieving a truer, straighter canter on his own than under saddle. Which by turn implies that *I'm* doing something to negatively impact that straightness and balance. My trainer reminds me all the time that I need to work on straightening him under saddle--a problem that developed after his hind leg injury.
Yes, I know, all our riding (communication?) problems aren't going to dissolve simply by changing a bit. However. Correct bitting can be the difference between fighting and struggling against one another, and coming together in harmony. That may not be a whole staircase, but it's sure as hell more than a single step.
Today was even better than yesterday. I didn't do a whole lot--mostly basic railwork. Getting him to engage into the bit and round through his back. I also decided to make today a halt-to-trot/canter transition day, something he usually makes quite the fuss about. Again, only the slightest even pressure on the reins and LOTS of leg (my spur strap broke before I got on), and he bridled up splendidly. Now accustomed to the feel of the bit myself, I wasn't hesitant to push him into the contact. And, much to my surprise, he was very responsive when it came to the to-and-from halt transitions. They weren't perfect--he still needs just a bit more drive, especially into the canter--but they were vastly improved.
Usually when I ride, we go through a first few minutes of "hey now, listen!" with the bit. I love my KK Ultra 3-link, but it took half the ride before we weren't struggling against each other. With the mullen? Two laps of the arena during warm-up walk, and we were in perfect agreement the whole time. He felt softer, more giving, more responsive. I had worried he would lean on the bit--he does that with the KK. But not even that was a problem. Granted, I never did any real circling work (there was a lesson going on in the arena that limited me) or lateral work, so I don't know how he'll be with that, but I'm genuinely looking forward to it. I feel like we're closer to wanting a double bridle than I'd thought. Maybe not in the conventional, "we're doing 3-4th level movements" kind of way, but in the respect of contact and communication way--which, in the end, is more important.
I just have to attempt the impossible--finding the specific bit I want in a 6". I don't understand it, but bit companies seem to think that the only people who own large-mouthed horses are Grand Prix (aka well sponsered) riders and trainers. Thus, I can typically ONLY find 6" bits that are in the $180-250 range. RIDICULOUS. Broke people can own large horses, too, you know!!!
I didn't find the exact bit I was looking for, but I did find a mullen mouth pelham for around $30. (Thanks drafttack!) Which honestly might be even better than the bit I'd originally been looking for. With a pelham, I could ride with it on the snaffle. Or I could use it as a transition bit in the two-reined pelham. Or I could use it as a schooling weymouth and just have the reins on the curb shank.
Read more...
